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Manzhouli is a place on the edge. Literally, it sits at the edge of China, Russia, and Mongolia. The PRC has always been a little sensitive about the Russian borderlands around Manzhouli, and during periods of heightened security they even still sometimes expel all the foreigners living there and temporarily shut the city down.
Generally speaking though, the Chinese have clearly realized that Russians are far more interested in stomping over the border to buy cheap Chinese made fur coats, kitsch, and junk, going to discos, and then stumbling back hung over than invading. In fact, the first land border the PRC opened up to their neighbors was at Manzhouli in I was momentarily deceived when I first entered Manzhouli.
I was interested by the idea of a Russian minority in China — Europeans trapped on the other side of the line in a country they could never hope to blend into. I was excited to discover how much Russian culture had survived within the walls of China. Ornate, bulbous spires and brightly colored buildings with distinctly Russian facades rose up in a tightly woven phalanx out of the otherwise barren, flat, and wide open grasslands.
From the highway the place looked as Russian as I could ever imagine it being — a city of extensively decorted, over-sized dollhouses.
As I moved into this city of , I felt as though I was riding through the gate of Europe. When I stepped out of the van and into the streets this impression did not leave me. The old style Russian buildings did not lose their mystique when seen from close up. Just about all the signs were written in Russian Cyrillic, prices in stores were printed in Rubles, and the streets were full of sharp nosed, light haired, well-bellied, ass-endowed Caucasians.